Coyoacán takes you back to another time when the skyline was low, the houses big, and the streets intimate and lively. It has a colonial aesthetic that is charming and inviting. The roads are small and packed with shops, restaurants, and bars. The parks are grand and welcoming, sharing the space with vendors, families, friends, strangers, and lovers. It is well-known because of Frida Kahlo’s Blue House, but there is so much more to this timeless neighbourhood. Coyoacán is one neighbourhood that I need to go back to and spend more time exploring. If you would like more recommendations head over to Local.MX.
Food Hot Spots:
Cafe Avellaneda – this coffee shop is a delight, and you must stop by. It’s a tiny shop, so be prepared to get cozy. The cafe has the full array of third wave coffee offerings, but I think their best is the pour over or a cortado. The baristas are friendly and knowledgeable and will walk you through the coffee process if you desire. Coffee is indeed at the heart of this business, and it shows. Also, they source their ceramics from the nearby ceramics shop Taller Experimental. It’s worth a visit.
Cafe Negro is a delightful and bustling cafe just around the corner from Parque Centenario. They offer baked goods, breakfast, lunch, and a full range of coffee options, I love the cold brew and fresh croissant. You can also take whole beans to go, which I recommend.
Food & Drink:
Mercado de Coyoacán – I would say this is one of the major cornerstones of the neighbourhood. Go for the fresh produce, homeware, crafts, and don’t forget to grab a snack at the numerous food stalls before you leave. Bring cash.
Jupiter Ceveceria – We stopped at this spot because of the beer list: an incredible selection of craft beer from all over Mexico. The food is also incredible. Don’t be shy if it seems quiet in the place; things don’t get bumping until much later in the evening. You can grab a beer and people watch from the window seats, or get cozy on the cushions in the lounge area. I’ve linked to a more in-depth overview by Local.MX.
Elena Garro Bookshop is a cultural center and a bookstore. It has an excellent selection of English and Spanish titles with a focus on architecture, design, art history, literature, cooking, film studies, and art books. If you are an avid reader in Spanish, I would recommend picking up books here to take home with you. To round out your visit, relax in the courtyard cafe it’s a beautiful spot to pass the time and take stock of your purchases. This link will give you more detail on the architecture of the building.
Taller Experimental de Ceramica is an incredible ceramic studio in the center of Coyocán. It is a hidden gem, tucked away behind a brick wall creating a jungle pottery oasis. They specialize in Mexican ceramics but do offer some Japanese specialties. If you are looking for beautiful, minimalist ceramics, you have to come here. Call ahead to make sure they are open. Bring cash in pesos!
Things to do:
Parque Centenario is a large park/plaza with the Fuente de los coyotes (fountain of coyotes) in the center. Not only is this an iconic fountain, but it’s also a great spot to relax and enjoy an ice cream or coffee while you people watch. There are also vendors walking through the park selling many different things and sometimes impromptu mariachi bands.
Frida Kahlo’s House, see the museum blog post for more details.